If you want to sell them, taking the paint off and priming the models can make them look more appealing. It comes in a purple jug and you can get it at Wal-Mart or Menards really cheap. I love LOTR and I been looking for some. just simple green and a plastic cup. Don't leave the models out of the cleaner mixture before taking all of the paint off. If you rub hard enough, a stainless steel bristle brush can leave marks on large, smooth surfaces. And by the way. This is a great tip. Note that many models may still have primer or hard to reach gunk on a model if there is lots of detail work and/or the primer used is very resilient. To actually Strip Paint off Miniatures wait about 20-40 minutes, pop on some gloves, ensure your ventilation is good and/or if necessary, put on your ventilation mask. I'm fairly new to the "model" hobby, so I'm looking for advice. So do it while it is wet. And you should always wear gloves while using it. on Introduction. Just scrape at the model with a toothpick until it gets too dull. Today I tried stripping some models with simple green per advice I've received here and through internet searches. Focus on the areas where the paint really covers up the model's detail. Just FYI, Testor's makes a product called "Easy Lift Off," which will also remove most hobby paint. A white metal model should have no trouble, but you could also use a "hotter" solvent, such as mineral spirits or lacquer thinner (which removes almost any paint.) This would likely also work to remove the paint from any plastic model that had been printed from a 3D printer and painted. With the brush, go over with moderate force over painted areas. Stainless steel is best, but abraisive. I removed the chrome coating from a plastic capsule, and there was no damage to the surface at all. Will this also work? Circles, back in forth. This can get tedious if you have multiple models to clean and the paint/simple green on the bristle brushes tints your models. Of course, dry the models after rinsing. I've heard of people using Simple Green, but I haven't tried it yet myself. Rinsing the models in the sink may dislodge very loose paint particles (acting as a light brush), and help to remove the grime from paint left over from the brushes as the brushes get dirty. It's good because they can now reach in different directions and help scrape off paint by coming in at a different angle even if I use the same stroking motions with my hand. Place in miniatures. The paint will dry back onto the model after a few hours. When you finally get to stripping, take out only a few models at a time. Reply Once is all it usually takes. However, I've found that both of these solvents will "attack," dissolve, or soften plastic and resin figures in models. Where did you get that orc model? Worst case scenario, you have to remove the model's arms, legs, or base to reach areas the brush is too big to get to. Take Paint Off of Models Step 1: Materials. Kitchen Gloves (if you don't want to get dirty). Share it with us! Similarly, any paint chips created should be cleaned up. I use the word "found" because I completely forgot about them. (I actually do it under running water) Hope this helps. Now for timespans, a day is usually a good time period to soak a model. A benefit I have found of Simple Green is that it doesn’t matter how long I have left the models in the bath for, it hasn’t damaged any (yet). You can now repaint the models (see below), or sell them for much more than you could a model covered in paint. For me it’s about safety. The first picture is after about a minute of scrubbing. If you want to go one step further you can also take apart some models. Further, metal bristles are thin and pointy. This part can take a while. But if your impatient, a day is all that is really needed. Muscle floor cleaner? It can be done while listening to music or watching a movie( LOTR in my case). The hobby knife is your friend if you prefer precision detail as the sharp end can help scour away flecks and bits of primer and paint that the thicker bristle brushes cannot reach. 8 years ago Another note- vehicle stripping is by far the hardest. The bits of flecking on bases, paint chips and such should be disposed of in a proper manner. We got some Simple Green concentrate, and have had them soaking in it for three days now. The paint on them is quite bright and not what we wanted and I wanted to remove the paint and start again. For the rest, use a soft old tooth brush under warm running water. Tool set of bristle brushes for stripping (you can find a cheap set in the paint department of Home Depot)- one plastic, one copper, one stainless steel. stiffer bristles do help a lot. afterwards with paper towels. dunk the mini in. If your models are resin, alway wear protective headgear. If it happens, continue to strip and set bits aside with models. Final word on timespans in Simple Green- I've found that the longer the model sits in Simple Green, the looser the paint gets. Simply replace the Simply Green with a like product. Nice. Take your container of minis and drain the water. If Simple Green dries off the models, it may become harder for you to strip the paint. Its time consuming but easy. I've had over 50 models in a big mixing bowl with a large hard covered book keeping in the moisture. It's a little easier because the bulk of the fairing can be removed like on a real bike, but I didn't know if I should chance painting it without removing the existing. This depends on what the model is made of. You might want to do this if you buy used painted models and want to paint them yourself. Plastic Container to hold miniatures. I assume that after 2 years you have found a solution, but I suggest painting a piece of scrap plastic and then trying to strip it with that before you use it on your precious model. I don't have Simple Green with me but I do have Mr. Make sure to clean up any stripping solution bubbles or splashes, as these will stain whatever they are left on. Did you make this project? Don't work at this step for too long, just get most of the paint on the exposed faces off. Will this also work? In the UK I have also used Fairy Power Spray and that seems to be one of the best too. Most of the models in my gallery are formerly painted models that I have stripped and repainted. Alternatives to Simple Green exist, such as L.A. The glue becomes brittle and the model easily comes apart. 7 years ago At this point all the paint except for the black primer is removed. You can repeat the steps above for a second stab at the model's cleaning, but good is good enough if the paint is scrubbed down to it's almost bare minimum and priming over it will hide the prior paint job. Any reasonably sized container would do. First use an old toothbrush to get the majority of the paint off of your model, occasionally rinsing the model in a tub of water. Simple Green. and they say its safe on plastics. Tool set of bristle brushes for stripping (you can find a cheap set in the paint department of Home Depot)- one plastic, one copper, one stainless steel. Use a paintbrush / q-tip / cotton bud, dip it into the stripping fluid, and gently brush the area you wish to clean. works quite well. If you have time to let the model soak for a while, mix the simple green with water. Health hazards abound if you leave any paint chips behind or fail to wear protective masks when working with resin. I'm wanting to make it purple and the only model came in a bright red. This tutorial will focus more on infantry and monster models than vehicles. Any non-primer paint may dissolve utterly in the green soup after a long enough period, leaving just primer and tougher paints. Simply replace the Simply Green with a like product. I prefer those with no leak lids that seal in moisture.Kitchen Gloves (if you don't want to get dirty). Enjoy your miniatures. Note on stripping and bits- model parts will fall off. Assuming the bike is 3D printed in a factory with all the specialty paints, would you suggest I use this method to take all the paint off and work from scratch, or just mask off certain areas and paint on top of the existing finish? Not recommended for plastic figures! If there are bits of paint in hard to reach areas, carefully extract with a hobby knife, flicking it and using the dull edge so as not to ruin the model. Soak metal miniatures in Pine-Sol overnight, then scrub miniatures with a hard-bristle toothbrush, and even old paint comes off easily. I've found that Simple Green often works well in stripping some paints, particularly from plastic or metal miniatures. Strips paint and chrome plating relatively quickly and easily without harming the base material. Totally Awesome (which is cheaper). Long Term Note On Metal Bristle Brushes And Safety. Once you’ve come this far, you’re ready to paint, play or display. but an alternative is Brake Fluid. I would try amazon. I wasn’t able to remove it all, but I tried. One question I do have is can this be done with the plastic miniatures that you use? and its also safe on plastics. The responses generally include acetone, caustic lye-based solutions, Pine-Sol, paint thinners, Simple Green, and sometimes even automotive brake fluid. I also tried this with plastic models, but im not sure if the weakened glue was from the simple green or the freezer. They were primed with Citadel Skull White, and then had Vallejo Game Colour Orange used on them. For plastics use something specifically designed for it, or something like Simple Green, Bleche-White, brake fluid, etc. Keep in mind my standards of painting are different from others, but I do my damnest to make sure that my miniatures get a good scrubbing before I get to work. thanks i love LOTR i can't wait to see your next instructables. I've found that some primers can be resistant to SG, though. Place models on newsprint. repeat if necessary. Newspaper for catching flakes of paint, globs of paint, specks of paint. I have not tried gw resin though. 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